Gasherbrum I Expedition (8,068m)– 2019 Spring
Contrary to general belief Gasherbrum doesn’t mean “shining wall”. The name comes from the Balti words rgasha, which means beautiful and brum which means mountain. There are six Gasherbrum Peaks. Gasherbrum I, also known as K5 and Hidden Peak, a name given by William Martin Conway in 1892 in reference to its extreme remoteness. It is the highest peak among them. It is also the 11th highest peak in the world and is the second highest in the Karakoram Range.
Contrary to general belief Gasherbrum doesn’t mean “shining wall”. The name comes from the Balti words rgasha, which means beautiful and brum which means mountain. There are six Gasherbrum Peaks. Gasherbrum I, also known as K5 and Hidden Peak, a name given by William Martin Conway in 1892 in reference to its extreme remoteness. It is the highest peak among them. It is also the 11th highest peak in the world and is the second highest in the Karakoram Range. It is one of the four 8,000m peaks located in a tight cluster on the upper reaches of the Baltoro glacier, the main access route to the mountains which cuts through the center of the Karakoram Range. The Karakoram is the second tallest mountain range on earth. It lies about a thousand miles west of Nepal’s Himalaya mountain range. The range is bordered by Tajikistan, China, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and India. It is a condensed cluster of high peaks with 60 mountains over 6900 meters. Of the world’s fourteen highest mountains, four are located within the Karakoram Range: K2, Gasherbrum I and II, and Broad Peak.
Gasherbrum is a remote group of high peaks in the Karakoram, located at the northeast end of the 36-mile Baltoro glacier. The group forms a semi- circle around its own South Gasherbrum Glacier. A French Expedition led by H. De Segogne made first attempt in 1936, but they could not climb beyond Camp V at a height of 6797 meters. However, in 1958 an American Expedition led by Nich Clinch made the first ascent of Gasherbrum I. Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufman were first to reach the summit.
The peak was also the venue of the world’s first 8,000 meter climb in pure Alpine Style. This means that the start of the climb is done from the bottom of the mountain and all gears are carried on the way, if any bivouacs, they will be found on the way. No route preparation is done. Supplemental oxygen is not used. Reinhold Messner and Peter Hobbler achieved this unprecedented feat in August, 1975. On 8 August 1975, they began their climb. They had no rope with them, no supplemental oxygen, just personal climbing gears. On August 10th they summitted the peak and thus introduced pure Alpine style climbing to the Karakoram.
Gasherbrum I is one to the “least popular” of the 8000 meter peaks. It still has less than 200 ascents and is in tenth spot on the ascent-list for the 8000 meter peaks. It is also one of the peaks with least deaths, but this probably has to do with the fact that only really experienced mountaineers try a peak as difficult at Gasherbrum I.
The most common way to climb the peak is to attack on the western side and all routes here leads to “The Japanese Couloir”, which is located on top of the north-west face. The first ascent (1958) was made via Spur Peak and then via the long south east ridge to the summit.
Day 1: Arrive Islamabad, transfer to hotel, for gasherbrum tour.
Day 2: Islamabad-briefing at Ministry of Tourism about gasherbrum rout.
Day 3: Drive to Chilas, transfer to hotel for overnight.
Day 4: Drive to Skardu, overnight at hotel.
Day 5: Skardu- preparations.
Day 6: Drive to Thongal/Askole, overnight camp
Day 7: Trek to Korofong, overnight camp
Day 8: Trek to Chobraqk, overnight camp
Day 09: Trek to Paiju, overnight camp
Day 10: Trek to Urdukas, overnight camp
Day 11: Trek to Goro, overnight camp
Day 12: Trek to Concordia, overnight camp
Day 13: Trek to Sharing, overnight camp
Day 14: Trek to Base Camp
Day 15-43: RESERVED FOR CLIMBING GASHERBRUM
Day 42: Trek back to Sharing, overnight camp
Day 43: Trek back to Concordia, overnight camp
Day 44: Trek to Ali, camp. Overnight camp
Day 45: Trek to Low Camp via the Gondogoro Pass
Day 46: Trek to Dalsang Pa. Overnight camp
Day 47: Trek to Hushe, overnight camping
Day 48: Drive to Skardu, overnight at hotel.
Day 49: Skardu- relax at Skardu
Day 50: Drive to Chilas, overnight at hotel
Day 51: Drive to Islamabad, overnight camp
Day 52: Islamabad- debriefing at Ministry of Tourism
Day 53: Fly to onward destination – End of our Services for gasherbrum.
- Duration: 53
- Grade: 5
- Rating: Popular
- Destination: Pakistan
- Season: Spring