The magnificent Matterhorn summit awaits you on this 8 day technical climb. Beginning in Zermatt, we’ll take the Gornergrat train to the Rifflehorn for rock practice and training.
The magnificent Matterhorn summit awaits you on this 8 day technical climb. Beginning in Zermatt, we’ll take the Gornergrat train to the Rifflehorn for rock practice and training. Glacier walks, fixed lines, and rock pitches all help make up this wonderfully rewarding challenge. Our route will lead into a valley on the Italy side and up two other 4000+ meter peaks: Castor and Pollux. These peaks allow for acclimatization, fun and technical practice before the Matterhorn summit. Days are built in for inclement weather.
This program requires knowledge of basic mountaineering skills, including ice axe arrest, crampon and roped glacier travel is required. In addition, specific rock climbing skills are necessary. This includes the ability to climb rapidly with hands and feet, in balance over 3rd, 4th, and moderate 5th class rock (up to 5.7). Past participation in a week or longer advanced level rock climbing course, and completion of additional full day multi pitch rock climbs in mountain boots is required. Other necessary skills include knowledge of belaying and rappelling. Submission of a climbing resume and an interview with the program director is necessary for participation in the program.
Program fee does not include lodging, hut fees or meals. Each person is responsible for providing his or her own meals during the course of the program. In the climbing huts, breakfast and dinner can be purchased for each night. Participants must provide their own transportation to and from Zermatt.
Day 01: Zermatt to Rifflehorn on the train. Rock practice and training. Beer garden in the evening after returning to Zermott.
Day 02: Early start to catch the first gondola up to the Kleine Matterhorn (3883 m.). Descent on a snow field then climb to Pollux summit (4092 m). Overnight in Italy.
Day 03: Ascent of Castor (4228 m.). Practice rock pitches on Roccia Nera as the group desires. Second night at Refugio Val D’Ayas, Italy.
Day 04: Snow and rock climbing on the Central Briethorn (4164 m). Practice pitches of rock climbing similar to the Matterhorn.
Day 05 and Day 06: Tram ride and easy hike to Hornlihutte (3260 m). Afternoon: preview and practice on the first part of the Matterhorn (4478 m). Overnight at climbing hut. Ascent in small teams, one after the other.
Day 07: Second team ascent of the Matterhorn, and descent to Zermatt.
Day 08 Extra day as needed for weather, conditions, training, or acclimatization. If not needed, additional climbs are an option
- Duration: 8
- Grade: 3
- Rating: Normal
- Destination: Europe