Matterhorn and Mont Blanc Summits

Matterhorn and Mont Blanc Summits

This climber’s dream is a combination of Mont Blanc and Matterhorn summits, done in one 8 day program. A technical, rocky ascent awaits you, along with the sheer thrill of reaching the peak of these legendary European summits.

This climber’s dream is a combination of Mont Blanc and Matterhorn summits, done in one 8 day program. A technical, rocky ascent awaits you, along with the sheer thrill of reaching the peak of these legendary European summits. Beginning in Chamonix, we’ll take the aerial tramway to the top of the Aiguille du Midi. Then we’ll spend the next two days getting acquainted with the mountain surroundings, doing day climbs to cache gear and acclimatize, base each night will be in the hut at Cosmiques. If weather and conditions are good, our ascent of Mont Blanc will be on days 3 and 4, with a descent and travel between Chamonix and Zermatt before ascending the Matterhorn. This program requires knowledge of basic mountaineering skills, including ice axe arrest, crampon and roped glacier travel is required. In addition, specific rock climbing skills are necessary. This includes the ability to climb rapidly with hands and feet, in balance over 3rd, 4th, and moderate 5th class rock (up to 5.7). Past participation in a week or longer advanced level rock climbing course, and completion of additional full day multi pitch rock climbs in mountain boots is required. Other necessary skills include knowledge of belaying and rappelling. Submission of a climbing resume and an interview with the program director is necessary for participation in the program. Program fee does not include lodging, hut fees or meals. Each person is responsible for providing his or her own meals during the course of the program. In the climbing huts, breakfast and dinner can be purchased for each night. Participants must provide their own transportation to and from Zermatt.

Day 0: Evening meeting in Chamonix, to go over equipment, logistics, etc.

Day 01: Base at Cosmiques, day hike to cache gear

Day 02: Midi-Plan Traverse or another mixed climb which finishes with a few fun rock pitches on the sharp Aiguille du Plan.

Weather on this day will determine if we do the Goûter Route instead of the standard route.

Day 03: Ascend to upper Vallée Blanche area, Aiguille d’Entrèves, Point Helbronner and lift back to the summit of the Aiguille du Midi. Return to Cosmiques hut.

Day 04: Climb Mont Blanc (4808 m, 15770′) via the Traverse of Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit, or via the Goûter route depending on conditions. Descend the Goûter route to Chamonix for the night.

Day 05: Travel to Zermatt.

Day 06: Tramway and hike to the Hörnli Hut on the Matterhorn. Rest half day for summit tomorrow.

Day 07: Climb the Matterhorn (4478 m, 14,687 feet) and descend to Zermatt for the night.

Day 08: Extra day as needed for weather, conditions, training, or acclimatization.

TRIP FACTS

8

2

Normal

Europe